So you’ve seen something awesome advertised, but will you use it or will it sit a cupboard for months? It can be a bit of a minefield trying to figure out what you really need, what you might need and what you probably don’t need. In this blog, I’m looking specifically at cutting and grinding tools to let you know what they’re good for, what they aren’t good for and my opinion on them. Everyone has different thoughts on what’s essential and what isn’t, this is certainly the case when I ask my students, so my suggestion is to look at each option in the context of how you work to make a decision about what are the best tools for you.
Taurus 3 Ring Saw
A ring saw features a circle profile diamond blade which has a 360° cutting surface. This means that you can push the glass into it from any direction, enabling you to cut complex shapes in sheet glass that can’t be achieved with hand tools. It comes with a standard blade which is ideal for 2mm and 3mm glass. Other blades are available for thicker glass.
What is it good for?
This saw is great for those occasionally needing to cut shapes such as stars, seahorses and letters which can’t be cut with hand tools. It allows you to pierce complex shapes, foregoing the need for scoring the glass.
What is it not good for?
A ring saw shouldn’t be used as an alternative for regular glass cutting. It takes much longer and is much more expensive than using regular cutting tools. The blades are costly and will be worn much quicker if the saw is used excessively. If you are struggling with cutting glass, I recommend addressing this by having a teacher look at your glass cutting or investing in a cutting system such as a Morton or Cutter’s Mate (details below). I run a regular Glass Cutting Tutorial which may also be of interest.
Many of the moving parts of this saw are plastic, which means they are prone to breakage if too much pressure is used to push the glass into the blade. Replacement parts are often tricky to find and expensive.
My opinion
The Taurus Ring Saw is sold at a price that suggests a high quality, professional machine, but the build quality is that of a hobby tool. Unfortunately, there isn’t a real competitor for it on the market at the moment. It is suitable for careful use.
Glass Grinder
A glass grinder is a machine with a spinning spindle which holds a round, rotating grinding bit. Most grinders come with a ‘standard’ bit with medium grit (coarseness), and bits with different sizes and variable grits can usually be purchased as additional add-ons. Glass can be moved against the spinning bits to grind the glass, changing its shape. Most have water pumps which keep the glass cool.
What is it good for?
An ideal time to use a glass grinder is when you’re preparing glass for a leaded or copper-foiled design and the glass isn’t quite the size it needs to be. For foiled designs particularly, being able to round off the corners of sharp pieces makes them easier and safer to foil.
What is it not good for?
I don’t recommend using a glass grinder for glass fusing as a ground edge rarely fires glossy. You may see a matte finish or a cloudiness resembling devitrification. If your pieces aren’t the size you need them to be, it’s often better to nibble the edge into shape with a grozing pliers. Even though this gives you a less consistent shape than a grinder does, the kiln forgives this and heals the edge on firing, and it reliably fires glossy. If you are going to grind ahead of fusing, I recommend using a ‘fine’ grinder bit, so that there is less chance for debris to stick in the ground edge and impact its ability to fire glossy.
My opinion
A useful studio tool, particularly for stained glass and copper foiling. My favourite brand and model is the Kristall 2000s. They’re incredibly reliable even with regular use. As an additional tip, make sure you get the best life out of your bits by moving them up and down the spindle as they wear, so you get the full use of the grinding surface.
Cutter’s Mate/Morton Cutting System
There are lots of cutting systems on the market that aid in glass cutting, in a series of ways. Most systems feature a waffle grid cutting surface, which the different jigs and cutting aids can be attached to. These include components that allow you to create even pressured scores, straight scores and circular scores. There is usually a base system, and add-ons that can be purchased separately. The two best quality systems available in the UK are Cutter’s Mate (available at Creative Glass Guild) and Morton (available at Warm Glass).
What is it good for?
These systems are great for those who struggle with glass cutting; whether that’s applying an even pressure or following a template. If you enjoy strip cut construction techniques or otherwise regularly need to cut consistent strips, these systems can improve your accuracy and save you lots of time. The weighted glass cutter allows those who struggle to apply pressure to cut better and for longer.
What is it not good for?
As far as glass cutting goes, these systems are great. Before you invest though, it’s probably worth finding out if the reasons you are struggling with cutting are technique-based. Often it can be a fairly simple fix. If your cutter isn’t making a consistent scratching noise for instance, this is usually due to the cutting wheel hitting the glass at an angle rather than straight. So watch out for this!
My opinion
A fantastic addition to a glass studio, if you have the budget for it. But if you don’t fear not, glass cutting is all about practice and getting your technique right. Trying a pistol-grip cutter can also be a cheaper option of changing up your glass cutting technique.
Flat Lap Grinder
A machine featuring a flat, spinning surface that allows you to grind and polish flat surfaces. Some enable you to attach magnetic grinding disks and others are used with silicon carbide grit which is manually added to the surface. Most will have a tap fitting, allowing you to keep the glass cool as you grind it.
What is it good for?
Lots of things! Drop-out rims, sculptural pieces and pattern bar slices ahead of final firing to name a few.
What is it not good for?
It might be obvious, but it’s not good for grinding anything you’re not aiming for a flat surface on. If you’re looking to follow curves or explore more specified grinding of areas, a lathe would be the appropriate machine to look at.
My opinion
Glass grinding and polishing is an area where having machinery is a real bonus. It can really speed up your finishing process and take your glasswork to a more refined level. They are very expensive, and the Glastar is the most affordable model. More substantial models are created by Kilncare and Covington Machines. A flat lap was my first choice when taking the plunge to invest in cold-working equipment.
Tile Saw
A simple, motorised saw, that when fitted with a diamond blade can be used to cut straight lines in glass of varying thicknesses.
What is it good for?
Chopping up pattern bars, screenmelts, any fused glass that you want to cut up and incorporate into other designs.
What is it not good for?
It can only cut straight lines, so doesn’t have the versatility of a ring saw, but at less than 10% of the price of a ring saw it’s a no brainer!
My opinion
A great way to build your confidence in sawing glass, particularly if you make pattern bars or other thick work that you want to cut up. I use the QEP Wet Tile Cutter from Toolstation, but any similar model will do, and the diamond blade it comes with work! But if you’d like a cleaner cut, you can get the porcelain blade too.
Diamond Hand Pads
Foam hand pads with diamond coated work surfaces, available in a variety of grits. Coarse grits grind at a quicker pace than finer grits. Ideally you work up from a coarse grit through the finer grits. A 200 grit surface will fire glossy on a full fuse, a 600 grit surface will fire glossy on a fire polish.
What is it good for?
An entry level way of grinding without the cost of a machine. Great for small or delicate jobs, such as drop-out rims, removing kiln paper residue and devit and tidying up edges.
What is it not good for?
Big jobs. Grinding with hand pads takes a long time and is hard work. You will not dramatically change the shape of a piece of fused glass with diamond hand pads alone.
My Opinion
Essential for a glass studio, they are mainly used to finesse corners and edges on fused glass objects ahead of fire polishing.
I hope this is useful! Are there any other glass cutting or grinding tools you aren’t sure about? Let me know in the comments!
I am not sponsored by any product or brand and all opinions are my own, informed by my experiences as a teacher and in the art glass retail industry.